Utah. Idaho. Montana.
stay a while
Three of us decided to embark on a two week road trip. Camping, hiking, and just enjoying the freedom of having two weeks of loosely planned time. From Wisconsin we made stops in Nebraska, Colorado, Utah, Idaho and Montana.
The first stop was a bit of an unknown. We decided to leave Wisconsin late in the evening and drive some familiar roads through the night. We were headed for some hiking in Colorado, but knew we were going to need a break before we reached our first destination. After some searching on google earth I spied a large body of water that seemed out of place in Nebraska. A little more research revealed the lake could be just the stop we were looking for and was only a short drive off of the interstate. So it was decided, we pulled up to the lake late in the morning. It was quiet, but as we started to explore some of the pull offs, we realized much of the lake edge was basically a free for all. You could drive your vehicle at your own risk through the forests and along the sand that lined the water and find primitive camping at your discretion. It was an absolute surprise paradise! It was early June when we passed through here and we found we were early in the season to miss the crowds, but in just a couple short weeks I could see how the area would be a giant haven for anyone who enjoyed spending time in, on or around the water. After some short beach and hammock naps we ended up venturing around the entire 100 miles of shoreline before settling on a small cover for camp that night. The lake really couldn’t have made a better first stop to a true adventure road trip. Now whenever I hear someone talk about how bored they are while driving through Nebraska, I smile and think about the funny oddity of a lake utopia we stumbled on.
Our first real mountain hike of the trip ended up being a bit of a surprise as well. We had planned on a hike in Rocky Mountains National Park, but after hearing about the crowds we opted for something a little more off the beaten path. We found a perfect out and back we could do in an afternoon just outside of Aspen. With 5.3 miles and 2,073 feet in elevation gain, it was just the right amount of challenge for my first visit to the Colorado mountains. A lot of the hiking reviews had talked about these difficult switchbacks on the trail that I was not looking forward to, but the beginning of the hike was just a steady incline through aspen trees and was really quite pretty. Eventually though - we did reach the switchbacks (or so I thought) and I struggled. The path was well maintained, but these switchbacks were so gradual and just never ending. Finally we made it above the tree line and made our way across a rocky field… and then I saw it. The switchbacks. A completely vertical wall with a path that zig zagged up the rock face. I had the inner “no way” thought, but we kept going and you know what - those switchbacks really weren’t bad at all. I think I struggled more with the gradual incline for the first 4 or so miles than with that vertical wall. Soon after completing the switchbacks we found ourselves in a bowl with mountain tops all around. The lack of signage and multiple man made paths running every which way caused some confusion for a bit, but eventually we did find the lake! Cathedral Lake was calm and offered a view of Cathedral peak standing at 14,275 feet across the water.
Next stop was Utah. We didn’t have any big plans on our drive through so we kind of winged it and stopped when we thought something was interesting. We had been in the car a while so we pulled up All Trails to see what the next few exists had to offer. We found a trailhead marked about 3 miles ahead from where we were and decided to take a chance. BIG PAY OFF. The quiet little town we rolled into gave off an eerie locals only vibe, but we pushed through and down a road into a deep canyon where the trailhead was marked on the map. A lone goat stood at a ridge top and watched us enter. It was hot and quiet, but the further we went into the canyon we started to notice some nice park features like restrooms and benches. It was odd, because it seemed like it had been quite some time since anyone else had been back in the canyon. We found a place to park and started to wander the sandy paths and rock ledges. To our total surprise we discovered numerous Petroglyphs and many were done in a very large scale, some even at eye level. This spot was a total hidden gem full of history and interest, there was also some markers providing detailed information about what you were looking at on the rock walls, but it didn’t feel like a tourist stop at all. After walking around one of the main areas amazed by all petroglyphs we decided to drive further in the canyon to see what else it might be hiding. The road turned to dirt and potholes and we started to notice we were following the remains of an old railway. Eventually we came upon some building remains and a true ghost town. The buildings looked remarkably sound for how old they were. There was an old general store and a few other buildings dotted here and there along the road; some very primitive while others looked like more modern foundations built into hillsides. If you enjoy the wonder of what was before and a little off the beaten path exploration, this is a great destination. - Thompson Canyon, Utah.
Dark Skies. We had finally reached Moab and had spent the afternoon exploring a local swimming hole. We thought we were just going to take a peek to see what the fuss was about and left all of our camera gear behind, but ended up spending a few hours hiking along the waters edge with the bright orange walls towering overhead. It was a great break from being behind a camera, but I decided I wasn’t going to leave the camera behind anymore. We had dinner in Moab while we plotted our next move. Goblin Valley was close by and on our list of possible stops, but we found the camping to be full. We looked at a map and saw some BLM land just up the road from Goblin Valley and decided to check that out. We lucked out again. We pulled up to the camp area in the dark, we could see some people had camps set up down near the roads end at the base of some mountains, but we opted for the empty plateau we passed when we first entered. We parked the car, the lights went dark and we were “star struck.” I had personally never seen such dark skies with such a bright a clearly visible milky way. We pulled out our chairs and sat mesmerized before pulling out the cameras and headlamps and trying our hands at astrophotography.
Fifth Water Hot Springs
One of our next stops that we for sure wanted to hit was Fifth Water Hot Springs. We arrived to the trailhead before sunrise and got an early start. It’s about a 5 mile round trip hike, but nothing too strenuous. The trail followed the river and just as I was getting eager we started to notice some small bright blue pools at the waters edge. We walked just a bit further and discovered some of the most brilliant blue (and green) water I had ever seen. I popped the drone in the air for some quick footage and then we hopped in the water for some needed relaxation. The pools here are essentially in a chain format, but there are a number of them. We ran into one group of campers that were at the pools bright and early with us, but we had about a solid hour of light before others started to show up. As we walked the trail back out to the car we passed a lot of people including families. If you’d like some quiet time, it’s a good idea to start walking before the sun comes up. These hot springs get very crowded and they even had parking enforcement at the trailhead when we were leaving.
salt flats
The Bonneville Salt Flats, a place I had wanted to visit for 10 years. It didn’t disappoint. It’s hard to describe the vast open space. It has such a stark beauty and is basically a giant play ground. I had hoped to find and photograph some of the famous raised formations, but had no luck. That will have to be saved for the second visit.
the open road
Idaho here we come!
When we first arrived in southern Idaho we had a couple stops in mind for the night, but we decided on City of Rocks. The sky got cloudy as we arrived and we could see the clouds rolling over the landscape in the distance. We reached the park by dark and were lucky to find a camp spot perched on a tall ledge. We had a small area for our tent accompanied by a fire pit and picnic table. I highly recommend a night camping here. We did not have time to make a fire, but it was a unique camp spot that had a lot to offer. The next morning we were greeted by the sun and spent a few hours exploring the rocks. It was a fun “create your own adventure” kind of pace within the park.
city of rocks
lake stanley campground
welcome to the sawtooths
Sawtooth lake was probably my favorite mountain hike of the trip. We started off with a dreary rainy day, but the hike held our attention the entire way. We had heard sawtooth lake was still snow packed, but heard that Alpine lake (which shares the same trail as Sawtooth) was worth the trip out on its own. We were feeling really good (despite being a little damp from the light rain) when we reached Alpine lake so we decided to give Sawtooth Lake a push. We started to encounter more and more snow and did some scrambling up some snowy points, but it really was fun navigating the terrain. Eventually we did make it to Sawtooth lake where we enjoyed some snacks and shared some laughs about the hiking we just did (we probably could have been a little better prepared for the 9.4 mile out and back trail). Knowing time was becoming a concern we turned back for the trailhead, but were pleased to see a bit of sunshine peak through as we made our way back down.
Side note. Stanley is a lovely town. It seems like a chill mountain adventure paradise. An awesome coffee and bagel stand was a welcome treat in the morning along with a great gift shop to wander through. After our Sawtooth Lake hike we came back to find the town streets filled for what turned out to be a weekly dance and gathering. If you’re looking for adventure, Stanley is a top destination and I personally hope to make it back for more.
go further
go together
There is no shortage of hot springs in Idaho either.
Rocky Canyon Springs. Not far from Boise and a fun challenge to spot them on your drive. The springs sit in tiered pools on the hillside. You’ll need to wade across the Payette River and it’s a bit of a challenge. We encountered chilly water above the knee in places, but the springs are unique and you can choose your desired temp as they vary hot to warm from top to bottom.
Goldbug Hot Springs. We visited these mid-day and found a handful of cars at the trailhead. It’s a short 4 mile round trip, but the hike out is not an easy one in full summer sun as there is little shade along the way and you quickly gain about 1,500 feet in elevation. It’s a relatively well maintained dirt path that leads to a long stone staircase that you must climb to reach the springs. Once you arrive, you have a great selection of relatively private pools built into the rock face and an old bridge to reach the pools on either side of the waterfall. The views here are stunning and well worth the effort to get to these rural hot springs.
Kirkham Hot Springs. This was one of the more commercialized and family friendly springs we visited. The pools were hot and varied in temperature. Warm waterfalls added another unique aspect to this stop along with the view of the powerful river just below the rock edge.
Jerry Johnson Hot Springs. A well trafficked easy hike to a number of large pools. Seemed to be a very social place, but if you continue on through the flat area of large pools and find the small trail that seems to venture over a small hill and into the trees you’ll be rewarded with a more scenic secluded pool large enough for 10 or so people.
Weir Creek Hot Springs. This seemed like a local spot. Lots of camping along the trail and the larger pool had some regulars that were nice to chat with. This spot had some cool features we hadn’t seen elsewhere as well. It’s an easy walk out, just be prepared to share the pools with other visitors.
glacier national park
Nevermore will time seem short or long, and cares will never again fall heavily on you, but gently and kindly as gifts from heaven. - John Muir.
Backpacking in Glacier NP. Our hike took us out 8 miles and I quickly took notice we were losing elevation very quickly from the first few moments of the hike - it was going to be an interesting hike out - BUT it was an easy walk through beautiful forests and meadows. A small creek wound it’s way back and forth along the path much of the way until we could see the ranger station in the distance. We continued on until we reached the suspension bridge that crosses the Belly River. We spent some time bouncing our way across the bridge and taking photos before turning our attention back to the trail. A little while longer before we came across a small side trail to visit Gros Ventre Falls. We were close to camp so we decided to catch it on the way out the next morning. Camp was tucked in some trees along the water and thankfully so. The wind in the valley was relentless, but you would never know until you stepped out from the shelter of the trees.
Once we got settled in camp, I took a nap on the rock beach and the boys decided to explore a little. After some time by the water and a bit of indecisiveness we decided we might try hiking up to the overlook. A bit further than we anticipated when we left camp and probably a little unprepared, we hiked up the rocky cliff side and found a small surprise waterfall, before getting above the tree line and being treated to the beautiful views of lake Cosley below. We played in the wind and watched as the sun danced over the water below.